"Lived In" Looks Seize New York Fashion Week F/W ‘24

This New York Fashion Week showcased fresh interpretations of girlhood, grunge, academia, and mob wife aesthetics, alongside the maturation of the bow. However, our standout sustainable moment wasn’t defined by a particular material, designer, or trend, but by the understanding that clothing is meant to be worn, loved, and integrated into everyday life as an art form. 

In an era dominated by single-use clothing, some of our favorite sustainable designers emphasized the joy of wearing garments daily, a sentiment echoed on the runways this fashion week and in recent Internet fashion discourse. Take, for instance, Elena Qiu's worn-to-death Margiela Tabi shoes. Margiela Tabis are known for their unconventional design and their high price tag. Qiu guiltlessly wore hers into the ground. Why? Because that is what clothing (especially investment pieces) is made for. 

The following collections were our favorite tributes to the beauty of lived-in clothing at New York Fashion Week F/W ‘24.

Dauphinette - “The Vegetarian”

Dauphinette’s FW24 Runway collection was inspired by Margaret Atwood's poetic reflections on guiltless indulgence, as captured in the lines "Last year I abstained, this year I devour without guilt," and the iconic lyrics of 30H!3's 2008 single, "DON'TTRUSTME”: “You tell your boyfriend if he says he’s got beef that I’m a vegetarian and I ain’t fucking scared of him.” Founder Olivia Cheng crafted a collection that encapsulates the beauty and the distress of a garment lived in and cherished. In a society where we often starve ourselves and our clothing of the satisfaction of being truly experienced, Cheng's designs serve as a reminder of the joy found in embracing and wearing garments as an integral part of our lives.

Each of Dauphinette’s runway collections incorporates at least 50% upcycled materials. Looks from “The Vegetarian” feature an array of reclaimed leather, vintage fabrics and embellishments, secondhand shoes, upcycled cutlery, and repurposed sports balls, among other reimagined materials. The vintage and upcycled elements at the core of this collection exemplify how deeply cherished garments can be transformed into extraordinary pieces. 

Melke - “The Heist”

Melke's AW24 collection, “The Heist,” draws inspiration from the whimsical adventures of Wallace and Gromit, the claymation duo renowned for their mischievous escapades. The collection exudes a playful energy and a sense of adventure. However, amidst all the excitement and thrill, there's a comforting return to the familiar, symbolized by the duo's love for creature comforts like a hot cup of tea and a slice of cheese. 

The presentation showcased models wearing designs with rat and cheese patches, and oversized bows, in polka dot tailored suits while ironing clothing, crocheting in bed, making a sandwich in the kitchen, or braiding each other's hair in the bathroom. Like Wallace and Gromit, Melke understands that our daily wardrobe can be filled with charm and enchantment.

PH5 - “Come Knit With Us”

PH5’s FW24 collection, “Come Knit With Us,” reimagines the art of knitting as a symbol of modernity and versatility. In their pursuit of highlighting the causes of sustainability, garment workers' rights, and ocean health, PH5 recognizes the power of clothing as a means of communication and advocacy. By choosing knitting as the focal point of their collection, PH5 pays homage to the historical role of knitting as a social and political act, particularly for women seeking connection, sharing ideas, and engaging in social movements. 

The decision to present the collection with models knitting and conversing in an office setting reinforces the concept of lived-in clothing. By showcasing the garments in a realistic context where individuals actively engage in everyday activities, PH5 emphasizes the sensibility and versatility of their knitwear collection. Sustainable baddies can envision themselves wearing the pieces in our own lives, integrating them into our daily routines. Ultimately, "Come Knit With Us" serves as a poignant reminder of the power of fashion to foster connections and spark conversations, and inspires us to bring whimsy to work with us.